The melting point of the p-tex base material is approx 150*C, and the
epoxy resins used to construct skis and boards is about 170*C so you
can see that there's not much leeway between melting the wax & melting
the bases! The key therefore is to keep the iron moving & don't leave it on
the ski while you answer the phone!
epoxy resins used to construct skis and boards is about 170*C so you
can see that there's not much leeway between melting the wax & melting
the bases! The key therefore is to keep the iron moving & don't leave it on
the ski while you answer the phone!
Dominator
| X-Cold Waxes & Overlays | |
| DOM-FX01, FX04, FX07, FG07, Q | 250*F (120*C) |
| Cold Waxes | |
| DOM-FX11, FX44, FX77, FG77, HX77L, SRB11 | 230*F (110*C) |
| Mid-range Wax & Overlays | |
| DOM-FX22, FX55, FX88, FG88, HX88L, SRB32C, Q6 | 210*F(100*C) |
| Warm Waxes & Overlays | |
| DOM-FX33, FX66, FX99, HX99L, 65, RNZ, RNZG | 150*F (65*C) |
| Zoom Waxes | |
| DOM-Z400, Z400G, HZ40, RZ40, RZNS, RN, RNG | 250*F(120*C) |
Swix
| FC78 | 165*C |
| FC7, FC8X, FC10X | 160*C |
| FC10B0, HF4BW, HF4, LF3, LF4, CH3, CH4 | 150*C |
| HF6BW, HF6, LF6, CH6 | 140*C |
| HF7BW, HF7, LF7, CH7, Moly Fluor | 135*C |
| HF8BW, HF8, LF8, CH8 | 120*C |
| HF10BW, HF10, LF10, CH10 | 110*C |
Toko
| Toko JetStream (all) | 203-230*F (95-110*C) | |
| Cold Waxes | #TOK-0433, 0419, 0409 | 192-201*F (89-94*C) |
| Mid-range Waxes | #TOK-0432, 0417, 0407 | 180-189*F (82-87*C) |
| Warm Waxes | #TOK-0431, 0415, 0405 | 158-167*F (70-75*C) |
| Universal Waxes | #TOK-9770, 0163, 0167 | 158-167*F (70-75*C) |
| Molybdenum Waxes | #TOK-0420, 0410 | 167-176*F (75-80*C) |
| X-Cold Powder Wax | #TOK-9868 | 212-221*F (100-105*C) |
Holmenkol
| Ice Wax & Ultra Waxes | #HOL-24125 | 293*F (145*C) |
| Cold Universal & Beta Waxes | #HOL-24070, 24115, 20275 | 275*F (135*C) |
| Warm Universal & Alpha Waxes | #HOL-24125 | 57*F (125*C) |
Note
If you're calibrating your iron to match the melt point of a particular wax,
be aware that once an iron is set on a ski or snowboard base (that's at
room temperature), its plate temperature will drop. In the case of many
household or travel irons, this can be as much as 84*F (30*C)...whereas
a specialist waxing iron like the MaplusT10B.15 we carry will only drop about
a tenth of that amount before their thermostats kick in to bring the iron
temperature back up to speed. Set your iron temperature (or patience
factor) a little higher accordingly. Also remember that if the ski or board
base is colder than room temperature, this fluctuation will initially be
even greater...so exercise still greater patience and caution in this situation.
If you're calibrating your iron to match the melt point of a particular wax,
be aware that once an iron is set on a ski or snowboard base (that's at
room temperature), its plate temperature will drop. In the case of many
household or travel irons, this can be as much as 84*F (30*C)...whereas
a specialist waxing iron like the MaplusT10B.15 we carry will only drop about
a tenth of that amount before their thermostats kick in to bring the iron
temperature back up to speed. Set your iron temperature (or patience
factor) a little higher accordingly. Also remember that if the ski or board
base is colder than room temperature, this fluctuation will initially be
even greater...so exercise still greater patience and caution in this situation.
Temperature Conversion
To convert to C*, subtract 32 from F* and multiply by 5/9...C = (F - 32) x 5/9
To convert to F*, multiply C* by 9/5 and add 32...F = (C x 9/5) + 32